D'Urville Island / Rangitoto ki te Tonga
Paddling around D'Urville Island is a must do paddle for experienced sea kayakers. Much of the coastline is wild, rugged and remote. You'll camp on incredible beaches, paddle under 300 metre high cliffs and probably not meet anyone else for at least half the trip. For adventurous and experienced paddlers, this is a bucket list trip in a country filled with amazing places!
Quick Facts
Start / Finish - Waterfront at French Pass
Distance - Approximately 100km
Time - 4 to 6 Days. Unless you have a particuarly stable weather pattern for the duration of your trip, it is advisable to give yourself at least 1 or 2 days extra from your planned journey time incase you are weathered in at a campsite. Having spare time available means you don't have to risk paddling in poor weather conditions.
Difficulty - Advanced
Tides - There is tidal flow throughout this journey and more information is given in the description. Land Information NZ / Toitū Te Whenua produce tidal flow diagrams and information about French Pass which are worth studying.The rest of this trip is also affected by tidal flow, but like in much of New Zeland there is little published about flow rates. The descriptions given on this page are based on Nick and Sarah's experience, so are a good guide but should be treated with caution.
Cautions - This is a serious and remote trip. Once you leave line of sight of French Pass there is no mobile phone signal. Carrying appropriate communication equipment such as VFH radio, flares and PLB are essential.
Key Planning Information
Wind
This guide is written slightly differently to others on the website. Instead of offering a route, this guide simply describes the entire route and suggested camp sites. You should take this information and use it to assist your own planning. You may choose to complete the trip in a shorter time, because you have a deadline and are in expedition kayaks that can paddle long distances. Or maybe you want to take longer so you can take some detours to explore more or play in the abundant rock hopping opportunities.
There are many other places which you could wild camp at in addition to those described in this guide. Every named bay on the topographic map could be landed on (provided the surf doesn't prevent this) and it is likely you would be able to camp there (especially once you're away from French Pass).
The tides are strongest in French Pass and Stephens Passage. The tidal flow is still noticeable for the rest of the trip. It is estimated that the peak of the tide on springs flows at around 2 knots outside of French Pass and Stephens Passage. The ebb tide flows Northwards on both sides of the island and the flood tide flows Southwards.
Clockwise or Anti-clockwise?
This is a really important decision and could be the difference between having an amazing trip and having a really hard trip! The main consideration should be the forecasted wind and swell for the planned duration of your trip. Often either the East or West side will be sheltered from the weather, so try to follow the best weather. You'll want to aim to start and finish the trip with the tide in French Pass moving the same way as you, or at least be in the first/last hour of the tide.
How much water to take?
Water is reasonably abundant around D'Urville Island. The DOC sites have water pipes and there are many streams and rivers around the island as a whole. That said, not all rivers had water in them when we paddled this journey and others had livestock living around (and in) the river so we opted not to refill at several points. Take enough water capacity with you so that you can get through 24 hours without refilling if you need to. It is vital to take a method of sterilising any water before drinking it. This may be carrying extra gas to boil the water, or some other kind of purification method. We really like using a Grayl water press or Larq PureVis UV bottle.
French Pass / Te Aurniti
The Māori name for French Pass is Te Aumiti, which is short for Te Kawau-a-Toru (the shag kept by Toru). Toru is the short name for Pōtoru, captain of Te Rino canoe. Toru's shag is said to have drowned in French Pass while testing the water to see if it was safe his canoe.
This trip starts and finishes in French Pass, approximately 90 minutes drive from NZ State Highway 6 at Rai Valley. This is a stunning drive with incredible views of the Marlborough Sounds. The drive isn't for the faint hearted, with the last section on gravel track. The stunning views come in part because the road follows the cliff edge, with little to no protection between you and a catastrophic fall. Drive carefully! When you get to French Pass, there is plenty of parking on the road right in front of the beach. You could camp at the DOC campground in French Pass before or after your trip.
The tidal flows are well documented and you can find tidal flow diagrams and estimated times here: https://www.linz.govt.nz/products-services/tides-and-tidal-streams/tidal-stream-predictions/te-aumiti-french-pass
French Pass flows at up to 7 knots and is fast at pretty much all points of the tide - the difference between the turn of the tide and peak flow is about the width of the channel which has flow. Early or late in the tide there is still fast flow, but it is restricted to the narrow channel between the mainland and first channel marker. If you have experience paddling in moving water, this makes for a great play spot and you could easily spend a few hours here and then return to French Pass. If you're on a SUP it is crucial that you are connected to your board with a waist leash here.
On a nice day there will be lots of boaties also travelling through French Pass, and fishing in the eddies. Before entering the flow, have a good check that there is nobody else already making their way through.
East Side of D'Urville Island - French Pass to Billhook Bay
Although the Eastern coast of D'Urville is less dramatic that the Northern and Western sides, it still offers excellent paddling with great views and plenty to explore. All along the coast here there are great views across to the Marlborough Sounds and on a clear day, all the way to the North Island.
The journey Northwards from French Pass starts with easy paddling and lots of bays to shelter from any wind. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife along the way - on our journey we saw seals, sting rays and penguins!
There are two places to camp close to French Pass, incase you want a short first day or last day (depending on direction of travel). This can be useful to help you paddle French Pass with the tide. The first site you'll come across travelling North is a DOC site at Lucky Bay. A few kilometres further on is D'Urville Island Wilderness Resort in Catherine Cove. You can camp on their site for $15 per person per night. The owners are very friendly and they have a good restaurant with reasonably priced food and beer (given the remoteness of the location).
It's worth sticking in close to the coastline as you travel further North to see the amazing landscape. Once you pass Old Mans Head you have a decision - keep close in to D'Urville Island or head out to the three islands. Consider what the wind is doing here. Getting back from the islands to D'Urville Island could be tricky if there is strong wind, especially if you've explored right around all three islands.
Garden Bay is directly inland from the three islands and is a good camp spot. If you've got some extra time or energy left though, Billhook Bay is a better camp spot about 6km further North.
As you travel North the terrain is becoming more rugged, with rocks to explore. About 1km North of Garden Bay is a large boulder in the sea with a tunnel through it, only visible once you're right next to it. Hapuka Rocks provide more gentle rock hopping, and at Billhook Point there is a long tunnel which splits into two passageways. It's worth giving yourself time to explore the coastline here!
Billhook Bay is a great camp spot with good views. There isn't a huge amount of room on flat ground, so it's probably only suitable for 2 or 3 small tents. If you stay here, clamber up the hill which is Billhook Point for incredible views.
Northern Side of D'Urville Island - Billhook Bay to Otū Bay
The most dramatic and side part of the trip, the Northern section of is remote, wild and exciting.
From Billhook Bay you are soon at Stephens Passage, the gap between between D'Urville Island and Stephens Island. On a fine day it may be worth considering paddling around Stephens Island, which is an 11km loop from Hells Gate. There is no opportunity to land on Stephens Island.
As you pass through Hells Gate and the most Northerly part of D'Urville Island, expect strong tidal currents and confused water. The Northerly section may well have quite confused water if there is any swell due to the clapotis. There's more fun to be had as you pass through the gap between Te Wakaapani, the island on the the Western corner of this Northern stretch. Remember that if the conditions are too much for you, you're likely to have an easier time by paddling offshore of all of these islands.
As you turn South you'll likely find the conditions get a little easier. Although there are no named bays until Swamp Bay, there are actually quite a few land-able points should you need to outside of high water. This whole section is filled with great rock hopping which is worth taking the time to enjoy.
Soon you will have a choice to either keep following the coastline or cut across the bay. The shortest crossing via Victory Island to Trafalgar Point is 4.5km, less than half the distance of following the coastline of D'Urville Island and crossing Port Hardy around Squadron Rocks. If you have the time, the longer route is a nice paddle with lots of interest. You could also choose to paddle to Victory Island and then head South around Fleet Rocks.
Skull Bay is a stunning place to camp with space on flat ground for a few tents at the Eastern End.
If you have extra time, or need to hide from the wind, consider paddling down Port Hardy. Although we didn't paddle there, South Arm Campsite looks like a good spot.
As you continue on you will pass Trafalgar Point. The cliffs are once again getting steeper. Nile Head is another exciting headland if there is any swell with a Westerly component. As you pass here you'll be paddling under 300m high cliffs. If there is Westerly swell it will likely be breaking onto the rocks at the bottom. If this is the case, paddle offshore by 100-200 metres to avoid this. You may choose to paddle this far offshore anyway so that you can take in the scale of the cliffs! If the sea is calm though, you will be treated to many caves and other points of interest as you paddle on.
Otū Bay could be a bay that you paddle past, but it makes for a good lunch spot or camp spot if that suits your timings! There is almost guaranteed water here, although we chose to avoid due to the cattle.
Western Side of D'Urville Island - Otū Bay to French Pass
As you pass Otū Bay you'll be back under high cliffs, make the most of these incredible views. You're now getting to the highest cliffs of the trip, at 390 metres high.
The Northern side of Greville Harbour entrance gives some good camping options. There is a DOC site called Moawhitu Campsite. This is incorrectly marked on the NZ Topo50 map as being close to the sea, it is actually behind the lake and over 1km inland. Instead, go to the South Eastern end of the bay. You'll find a 4x4 track - walk up here for about 50 metres and you'll find a small space that DOC has cleared in the dunes for camping. There is probably only space for two tents though. If you need water, the best place is to head for the airstrip. Walk halfway down the runway (or follow the path to the right hand side). You'll come across the honesty box for pilots to pay their landing fees ($10). Close by is a standpipe. If you have the energy it is a nice walk from where you are camping to go past the airstrip, around the lake and back along the beach. The camping here certainly isn't remote and you'll probably get a few nice chats with batch owners if you're there at the weekend. If you don't want to see other humans though, probably best to camp at Otū Bay or head further down Greville Harbour to the DOC site at Mill Arm.
As you head South from Greville Harbour you are on the last stretch of high cliffs. These soon give way to more gentle, rolling hills. As you get to Ōkārewa Point you can either follow the coastline, or head out to Paddock Rocks. Here you will find a tide race and one of the best arches of the trip!
Thanks to Ian McKenzie of the Canterbury Sea Kayak Network for the great advice and recommendations ahead of our trip!
