Whangārei Heads: Ocean Beach to Urquart's Bay
A point to point paddle around the sheer, lush walls of the remnants of ancient volcanoes that form the Whangārei Heads is a stunner, especially with the pohutukawa in bloom. Pack some snacks for stops at the beautiful Peach Cove and Smuggler's Bay beaches.
Quick Facts
Start - Ocean Beach
Finish - Urquhart's Bay
Distance - 13km
Difficulty - Moderate
Cautions - This paddle can be done in either direction but launching through the Ocean Beach surf may be easier than landing and the carry down to the beach is much easier than up. Tides around Busby Head into Whangārei Harbour should be taken into consideration with special note taken of potential tide versus wind at this point.
Key Planning Information
Wind
Swell
Drop a vehicle at Urquart's Bay and continue the 4.5 km along Ocean Beach Rd to the upper car park at the end of the road. There are toilets at the main car park off Ranui Rd, and you can also park here. Both parking spots have a ~200m carry to the beach but it's downhill through soft sand from the upper car park versus a sandy flat slog from the lower. Wheels are sadly of minimal use.
Launch from the beach, and watch out for surfers! A rip often forms in larger swell just to the north of where the path from the lower car park comes out onto the beach. Head to the southeast, going around or between Motoraka and Tarakanahi Islands, depending on tide and swell, and pass a hidden beach on the other side of the headland from which you get your first glimpse of the impressive tower on the ridgeline below Te Whara/Bream Head. Continue southeast, towards Te Whara/Bream Head, noting the World War II radar station high up on the ridge which was used to scan for Japanese submarines in the area. Go round Te Whara/Bream Head at about 3km, where the water is usually bumpy, and head west along the vertiginous and verdant slopes of the Whangārei Heads. The knife ridge towers some 400m above. In December, the slopes are red with pohutukawa blossom.
At about 6km, you will arrive at Peach Cove, an idyllic sheltered beach with a very steep track in from Ocean Beach Rd and a DOC hut (an overnight stay is a possibility). This is a perfect spot for a break and a swim in the warm turquoise Northland waters. Look out to the Hen and Chicken Islands and the distinctive Sail Rock (you'll know it when you see it!). Peach Cove definitely has a "stranded on a tropical island" vibe.
Continue west along the rocky coast, around another minor headland and, eventually, to Smuggler's Bay at about 9km. A short walk from Urquhart's Bay, this steep beach is popular with day hikers enjoying a swim and stunning scenery. Why not join them? Alternatively, cut straight across the bay to Busby Head. You will see lines of ships in Bream Bay waiting to enter Whangārei Harbour. Some timing makes this last stretch easier as currents can be swift on the east side of Busby Head in and out of the harbour. Rounding Busby Head inevitably means negotiating some confused water but, once around and heading north, you can enjoy a swift ride on the incoming tide.
On the harbour side of Busby Head sits Frenchman Island featuring a noisy seagull colony and an enigmatic door in the side of the cliff. The concrete door, framed by columns and steps, most likely held acetylene cylinders for a beacon on the island last century. Continue north along the coast, noting the World War II gun emplacements. Whangārei Harbour was deemed to be under threat and so a close eye was kept on possible enemy incursions.
Finally, round the corner to the east, out of the current, and into the tranquil Urquhart's Bay and the end of your journey (unless you fancy a return trip). The Parua Bay Tavern on the road back into Whangārei is an excellent choice for post-paddle refreshments. Cheers!
Thanks to Dallas Veitch for submitting the photos and details for this trip! Dallas is a committee member of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers, and has recently co-founded the Wāhine on Water Sea Kayakers, an excellent initiative that is building community, supporting skills development, and encourages leadership among women sea kayakers in Aotearoa/New Zealand.
